I think it’s just ‘luck of the draw’ where Vevor are concerned. Good, poor or rubbish is my experience. Reading reviews can be enlightening – but the next batch may not reflect the previous responses.

I looked at the Vevor website (https://eur.vevor.com/lathe-chuck-c_10120/k11-100-4-3-jaw-lathe-chuck-self-centering-cast-iron-wood-turning-harden-steel-p_010269150444?v_tag=65253311-89eb-11ed-a9c1-57740b6b1676.1)

The webpage hints at a chuck for wood (different quality for metalwork?), plus mentions cast iron in the headline, however it claims a hardened steel body, which I doubt. I have no experience of this brand. I have looked at other brands of cheaper lathe chucks, and some of those for wood turning appear to use materials inappropriate for our use.

I'm not condemning Old Mart for his purchase, I'm glad he's pleased, but adverts do cause me anxiety with their confusing and sometimes contradictory descriptions. That distributors cause confusion is one thing, but one might hope that the manufacturer's own website is unambiguous.

Bill

Vevor is a distributor, not a manufacturer. They aren't even a tool specialist. The advantage of buying from them is low cost, not certain delivery of high-specification tooling. What people get is a bit risky, but as Old Mart and others have found, what arrives is often acceptable.

The name 'Vevor' doesn't guarantee quality: if a particular item turns out to be a dud, the customer detects the fault and asks for a replacement or refund. It's not like buying a Pratt Bernerd or similar. Industrial products meet much higher quality requirements, which would be good except the customer pays for lots of inspections, many of which make perfect sense in an industrial setting but are over the top in a hobby workshop.

Dave

Vevor 2 axis DRO is brilliant. The 7" angle plate needed attention with an angle grinder to get it to go to 45 degrees – but otherwise great. The Ball Vice needed some slight fettling but is now brilliant. Delivery is brilliant.

The Vevor Induction forge… can be bought about £200 cheaper on ebay.

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I'm looking to buy 5" 3 jaw one of these, there is one mounted on my Vevor indexing head and I took the chuck off to have a look at it with the backplate off. It has three Allen key bolts on the back, I removed them after a struggle as really tight, now I can't get the actual backplate itself off no matter what I try, has anyone managed to get it off and if so how did you do it?

I've never had a baddie from them yet. One item went awol.

Thing is, their basic items save a lot of effort for not too much moolah and you can sort out any shortcomings yourself

Got some very capable basic welding stuff before it got sold out

If you're in the CNC market it's definitely worth keeping an eye on them for useful bargains

Edited By Ady1 on 26/04/2023 13:16:23

Same with mine – I had thought of using it on my rotary table but it defeated my (not very intensive) attempts at removing the backplate so I bought a another chuck just to use on the RT. Maybe its all a fiendish plot by Vevor to maximise chuck purchases.

I have a Ø160 chuck that only had outside jaws with it when I bought it used. I found some soft jaws and inside jaws for it on the WWW. I put the inside jaws on the chuck and did a check and there was excessive runout but I knew the scroll and main body were good. I jammed the jaws tight with spacers between the parallel faces between the jaws. I then bored the jaws with a large boring bar and some **GT inserts taking off 0.15mm in 0.05mm steps from just touching the high spot to cleaning off all the marker pen I put on the contact faces. No runout issues now. I have machined HSS with these inserts so I had no worries with using them on hard chuck jaws.

So there is a quick and simple alternative option to grinding the jaw faces if the scroll and chuck body are good but runout is unacceptable.

Martin C

If the backplate is, thanjfully, a tight fit in the register on the chuck, you could drill teo diametrically opposed holes and tap them (M6 perhaps ? ) and use these holes with jacking screws to pull the backplate off.

The holes for tapping only need to just go through the backplate far enough for the bottoming tap to do its work.

Howard

If the chuck was made by San Ou you will be quids in! I bought an 8" 4-jaw self-centring chuck for £108, including VAT & shipping, and the quality and accuracy for the price is excellent. So cheap I thought it may be a scam. It cost me another fifty-quid for a well used L0 back-plate. It needed an interstitial plate making and I took a lot of trouble over this when machining the register, but when fitted a 0.625" ground test bar showed a run out of less than 0.0015" when measured six inches from the chuck jaws. I don't even bother with the Burnerd 3-jaw now except when the need arises to grip a hexagon.

Edited By Chris Crew on 28/04/2023 20:58:13