If you are stuck I can measure components off my "spare" saw that's been waiting for ages to be rebuilt.

That said later versions, like the one I use, are direct drive by two belts via countershaft to get the necessary speed reduction. Controls are a simple push button Direct on Line starter with an industrial rated microswitch in the coil circuit to turn it off at the end of the cut. Last of the older ones on open legs use the same saw bow assembly as the solid base type like the one I use so the castings have provision to operate the microswitch.

Never used one with the clutch mechanism but frankly I don't see any great need for it id the machine has its own motor rather than being driven by line-shaft. My spare was hooked up to a line-shaft running in a trough in the floor. But a late type self contained one turned up at a price too low to refuse about a week after picking the "spare" up.

Clive

Clutches were more of thing in the distant past when electric motors did not like too much stopping and starting. The motors had a thermal overload cutout and after so many stops and starts would just sit there until it cooled down and reset. With a modern motor a clutch is not so necessary.

Richard

This is how the factory did the limit switch to stop the direct drive, clutchless, versions of the machine at the end or the cut.

Basically an industrial microswitch unit fixed to the main frame with a carrier for the actuating bolt on the pivoting pin the bow and slides ride on. Bolt sits as close to the full radius of the pin as it can. Probably better to fix a longer bracket across the pin so the bolt moves on a bigger arc. Mine is a bit sensitive when it comes to adjustment. Difference between stopping before cutting off and never stoping at all is a very small fraction of a bolt turn. 1/4 BSF thread on mine I think.

Picture is a bit murky 'cos everthing is the same blue-grey oily colour but you should get the idea. Saw bow in parked raised position.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 13/12/2022 16:48:50