Probably time for a bit of an update on this one.
I never did find a manual, so like all good engineers, I stripped it to find out how it worked.
It turned out to be so worn in the slides as to be more or less unusable for anything precision, though it might have sharpened a scythe OK with the amount of "banana" wear in the main table's movement.
It it's of interest to anyone, there's a couple of photo albums (both the same) with annotated pictures on
Facebook HERE
https://www.facebook.com/peak4/media_set?set=a.10216842822810830&type=3
and on
Flickr HERE
https://www.flickr.com/photos/peak4/albums/72157715281085636
This one has higher resolution photos than the facebook album.
Also the Flickr album should have a slide show facility at the top right, but you'd miss out on the photo descriptions, which with so many photos might actually be a good thing.
There's probably far too many photos, mainly of the various setups for measurement and machining.
I hope they might provide use or interest for someone considering attempting a similar job, as the methods I used will apply to many machine tools.
Note that it's not intended as instructions, as I've never been taught how you are supposed to approach this type of work, and I'd never scraped anything before.
First job was to make a scraper, and then chop a piece of cast iron to make a straight edge; it became more and more time consuming from then on, but filled the lockdown time nicely.
It does however show that even someone like me, with no training, and little experience of machine tool re-building, can achieve a vaguely passable result; I hope it will provide a bit of inspiration for someone else to have a go.
Quite happy to answer any questions.
In the end it was probably worth it, though certainly not cost/time effective.
Maybe I should strip and paint it now.
The first job I've done, other than roughly re-finishing the mag chuck, was to make some end/side plates for the chuck.
I was quite pleased that they have come out about 1½ tenths over 10" length (0.004mm over 250mm), though they are only a bit under 1" wide.
Still awaiting a more appropriate wheel to complete re-surfacing the chuck; I'm using a spare 6" offhand grinder wheel at the moment until the courier turns up. The surface finish certainly shows some fine "bounce" marks from the wheel, but whether this is due to an inappropriate wheel, lack of balancing, or shot spindle bearings, I'm not sure.
Any thoughts on the best way to re-finish a 5" wide chuck with only 4" cross travel??
The only options I can see, are to use a wider wheel of 1"+ or move the chuck on the table.
The machine has an official wheel capacity of 6" x ¾" x 1¼" and only a ½HP motor, which struggles at much more than a ¼ thou full width pass; the vertical adjustment only has 1 thou divisions.
Bill