Two new 50 and 100 teeth gears, that can go instead of present 40 on spindle and 80 on leadscrew, has arrived and are nice.
I would have preferred new gears in Delrin from You_ Engraving (Ebay) but I have lost his address and Ebay is not very helpfull establishing direct contact.
It has sent me thinking and the other possibillity is to have synchro belt from spindle to a lower idler that also has the existing 40 gear wheel and then makes further changes unnessecary.
Advice sougth please because there is a small devil that tells me to put electric leadscrew on instead of all this medival clockwork technology .
There’s a chap just started a series on DIY ELS on YouTube – search for Clough42, makes very interesting viewing. He explains the issues very well and is developing the series as he goes, for example, has moved on from stepper to hybrid stepper / servo motor. I’m waiting for him to complete the series then either purchase a kit or plans depending upon how he chooses to monetise his IPR. His electronics knowledge is deeper than mine and has already saved me from wasting a lot of time, what’s more, it looks like his software is available under an open source licence
There’s a chap just started a series on DIY ELS on YouTube – search for Clough42, makes very interesting viewing. He explains the issues very well and is developing the series as he goes, for example, has moved on from stepper to hybrid stepper / servo motor.
Posted by Niels Abildgaard on 23/05/2019 18:42:39:
I would have preferred new gears in Delrin from You_ Engraving (Ebay) but I have lost his address and Ebay is not very helpfull establishing direct contact.
E
There is a 'Contact Seller' link on his listings and as long as you are not trying to deal outside eBay you can ask anything.
In any event there are lots of other sources of ready made gears and pulleys.
Electronic Lead Screw makes sense in this day and age. Like the difference on a car or motorcycle between points ignition and carburettor vs electronic ignition and fuel injection all controlled by an ECM that knows within a fraction of a degree where the crankshaft is at any time, vis-a-vis throttle position, air pressure, engine load etc etc.
Posted by Niels Abildgaard on 23/05/2019 18:42:39:
The new spindle is in and turns freely.
Two new 50 and 100 teeth gears, that can go instead of present 40 on spindle and 80 on leadscrew, has arrived and are nice.
I would have preferred new gears in Delrin from You_ Engraving (Ebay) but I have lost his address and Ebay is not very helpfull establishing direct contact.
It has sent me thinking and the other possibillity is to have synchro belt from spindle to a lower idler that also has the existing 40 gear wheel and then makes further changes unnessecary.
Advice sougth please because there is a small devil that tells me to put electric leadscrew on instead of all this medival clockwork technology .
Colchester Chipmaster has a tooth belt drive from spindle to layshaft for feeding the saddle, but retained gears for screw-cutting. Would it work with tooth belt for screwcutting? Don't see why not, and it would make the lathe a lot quieter, most of the noise from mine is the gears at that end. I think John Stevenson did this mod on his lathe some time ago
I have been working quite some hours to make a useable M50*1.5 ER40 thread.
Spindle- material was a cheap end of bar offcut and soft and like water pipe with inclusions of old scrap that is hard as tool steel.
It was quite a learning.The motor torque and power is more than enough for normal cutting and when it hits on of the hard spots spindle stops immidiately and belt slips.
Stopped motor and applied some brute torque with a C spanner in the spindle holes close to headstock.
One time the motor had not stopped (very low noise) and when I was through the hard spot,my guardian angle did her work..
Very ,very nasty.
Future considerations on motor power and rev will exclude motor powered single point screw-cutting.
A handle screwed on end of spindle is the way to go for old fools.
The frame 71 four pole motor turns a 50mm Gates5M belt pulley and spinde pulley is 100mm.
A frame 63 two pole with a 25 mm pulley can then do the same job but wil run two times faster and make more noise.
Will try and compare.
The spindle I am trying to make has 30mm bore full length and is an overkill.
It needs two new bearings, and all the grease seals need modification.The real trouble is the bigger (50 teeth)spindle gear wheel.
If the spindle looks like the lower of these it will only need to have front bearing changed.
Drive system with electronics and the geartrain to leadscrew can remain as is.
Powered speed range needed for me is 120 to 1200 rpm that can be done with existing DC motor in one step.
I think thats the way to go.
I bougth a MC3 ER40 collet chuck from Arceuro and was not shocked by price.
The factory that made the shown collet chuck/nut can easily make the new spindle for same kind of money.
Material and machining time are identical I think.
It can be a good buissness as there must be many thousands of these mini lathes around.
Nice machining but it must be said that your electrical installation is terrible. This type of connection is just asking for trouble. The power input including the weight of an extension lead is hanging off the conductors. Even worse the earth connection is taking most of the strain. if this come off, even without any other fault the filters in the drive will put your lathe metalwork at 1/2 supply above ground, i.e. 110V AC. Admittedly low current, but even a slight shock around moving machines can cause other injuries as you pull away.
The drive should be in an enclosed box with ventilation protected from swarf and coolant and the power input and motor connections by either proper power connectors or cable glands with strain relief. The enclosure should also incorporate a fuse and suitable EMI filters unless they are included in the drive. I assume this is just a trial set-up but it can electrocute you just as quickly as a final design. Reaching across the motor, pulley and gearing to reach the drive is not great either.
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 15/07/2019 12:52:22:
Hi Niels,
Nice machining but it must be said that your electrical installation is terrible. This type of connection is just asking for trouble. The power input including the weight of an extension lead is hanging off the conductors. Even worse the earth connection is taking most of the strain. if this come off, even without any other fault the filters in the drive will put your lathe metalwork at 1/2 supply above ground, i.e. 110V AC. Admittedly low current, but even a slight shock around moving machines can cause other injuries as you pull away.
The drive should be in an enclosed box with ventilation protected from swarf and coolant and the power input and motor connections by either proper power connectors or cable glands with strain relief. The enclosure should also incorporate a fuse and suitable EMI filters unless they are included in the drive. I assume this is just a trial set-up but it can electrocute you just as quickly as a final design. Reaching across the motor, pulley and gearing to reach the drive is not great either.
Robert G8RPI.
Hello Robert
You are absolutely right and I will do something about it.
This is one of the reasons for wanting to use the original DC thing.
Ideal will be a 48 vol DC motor that can sit where the present DC motor is meant to be.
I d not care for low speed high torque anymore.
Rather turn spindle by hand with all electronics disconnecte when screwcutting
I have received a X-mas gift on my dorstep from Amazon four days after ordering.And paying 122 Euro
My 24mm testbar gives total run-out within one division (0.01mm) close to collet and plus minus 0.025(total 0.05) at cantilevered end 200mm away when put in 24 to 23 collet .In the 25-24 it hardly moves near collet and is plus minus 0.015 at free end.
Not bad
I have some spoiled carbide milling cutters and can test these close to collet.
The 12mm cutter in 13-12 collet is plus minus 0.03 but 13 is not a lucky number and in the proper 12-11 collet it is plus minus 0.01.
16mm cutter and10mm cutter run within one division in proper and proper plus one collets.