I think there might be two small gears missing from the two posts stuck up from the underbelly

I'm not familiar with that particular head, but have recently stripped a poorly Kuroda head which looked very similar in design, and it had the two small gears.

have a look in my photo archive, there are some pictures which might explain better.

Dan

By some mad coincidence I've just picked up a complete and (hopefully) working Lenz LPA1 as a replacement for the defunct Kuroda, it came with a full instruction and parts manual complete with drawings. Have got a pretty full on week coming up, but if I get the chance I'll scan it for you, if not, then will do it at the weekend. Bad news is you should definitely have two small planetary gears present.

Al.

Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 10/10/2016 22:51:54

Here you go Dan, hope it helps

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ca744p3lbrnrpey/img018.pdf?dl=0

Glad to help Dan, that's what these forums are all about……..goodness knows how we all managed before the internet

I have the same boring head on a R8 shank. It has 15mm holes for the cutters but nobody seems to supply these. I would appreciate any ideas on the best route forwards. Can larger boring cutters be ground down? Can the holes be easily opened out to 16mm. Does anyone service these heads? I would like to get it to work because otherwise I rely on a c****y Chinese boring head which is rubbish to set very accurately.

regards

Chris

Very helpful posts here. Thanks for the link to the instructions for the LPA-1S. I still have a few matters on which some advice would be most helpful. Mine has a Bridgeport shank and there is no top screwed washer – at least not one that can be seen or be accessed. I have only managed to get the bottom sliding toolholder off with some difficulty because the grease is perhaps 50 years old. That leaves a body with no way to get inside to clean it out. I contemplated a degreaser but that would not allow me to regrease it. So, first issue, how do I get inside the body? Second problem is – what is the best grease? Third matter is – the marks on the setting ring are almost unreadable when the head is in use. Does anyone know of some magic paint or enamel that can be applied and will stay lodged in the serrations so that I can (at 82) read them? regards to all Chris

Colin. Thanks for the post. I took a long look at my LPA and decided that the Bridgeport R8 shank HAD to be taking the place of the screwed washer referred to in the instructions that Alan provided. I put the head between the jaws of a vice with rubber jaw liners and, having tightened the heck out of it, I put a 21 mm spanner on to a couple of flats that I noticed on the R8 shank and, lo and behold, the shank screwed off in one piece. I found everything in good order under the two knurled rings except for the very old grease which I softened by mixing with a little oil. I still have to get into the rest of it but am inclined to leave it for use only as a boring head and leave the facing mechanism alone – at least for a while. On the matter of the 15 mm holes for tooling, I decided to try to turn down the shank of one of a set of 18 mm boring tools. I found the material to be not very hard. I had imagined it to be very hard due to its shiny grand surface so I now have a set of 15mm boring tools with a step up to 18mm. The step sits on the edge of the 15mm hole and helps to add rigidity. I would still like to try to get a contact for sales and service of these heads if they are still made.