ML7 Tight spindle

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ML7 Tight spindle

This topic has 9 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 30 December 2010 at 20:54 by Alan Worland 1.

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28 December 2010 at 10:26 #61317
Tony Wagstaff
Participant
@tonywagstaff66092
Hi guys,

I sent yesterday replacing the headstock drive belt on my ML7.

On refitting the the bearing caps, I found the spindle would not turn – even with all the belt tension released.

I stripped down all of the bearing caps again and removed the belt. When lowering the spindle back into the bearings. I noticed that as it started to enter the rear bearing, the flange at the back end of the spindle was binding against the bearing housing.

Nothing has been touched during the changing of the belt, the only screws that were undone were the 4 in the bearing caps. I even made sure that the laminated shims stayed in the same place – even the same way round!

Can anyone offer me any guidance to set the head correctly as I am getting frustrated now!

Cheers

Tony
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28 December 2010 at 10:26 #11728
Tony Wagstaff
Participant
@tonywagstaff66092
28 December 2010 at 11:26 #61322
Nicholas Farr
Participant
@nicholasfarr14254
Hi Tony, I’m not familiar with the ML7, but Mark Frampton delt with changing the belts in MEW170 &171. Reinstating the spindle was covered in the 171 issue.

Regards Nick.
28 December 2010 at 12:50 #61326
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
If you simply removed the spindle, without touching the position of any of the spacers etc on the spindle, it must slip back into position. Have you checked that the thrust washer of the ball thrust bearing has not moved?

K
28 December 2010 at 15:24 #61337
_Paul_
Participant
@_paul_
Tony,

I had to change the backgear in my ML7 about a year ago this too means taking out the spindle.

I found like you that on replacement it was tight to turn, I meticulously stripped it down a few times finding nothing wrong.

The ML7 bearing caps dont have particularly positive location so what I did in the end when refitting the caps was to line up as best as possible by eye and load them with thick (slideway oil) then “feel” them into position took a few goes but eventually mine slackened off somewhat after doing this and adjusting the endfoat slightly.

That said mine then took a couple of hours running to return to it’s former “easy hand turn” state.

Regards

Paul Floyd
28 December 2010 at 22:20 #61364
John Olsen
Participant
@johnolsen79199
The right hand cap on mine will almost go in the wrong way around, which could be a source of problems.

On the left hand side there is an adjustment for end float, if this has ended up too tight it might cause some binding. There is a grub screw through a screwed collar. (There should be a little brass pad where it bears on the thread.) I always slacken this back a little before dismantling, I think that it helps with both disassembly and reassembly. Mind you, last time I forgot to readjust the endfloat afterwards, and only realised when I was screwcutting a part, luckily before I got too far.

regards

John
29 December 2010 at 09:08 #61371
Gordon A
Participant
@gordona
Hi Tony,

You could try ringing Myford on + 44 (0)1159 254 222. They have given me advice over the phone in the past.

Gordon.
29 December 2010 at 11:59 #61382
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Itwould be a good situation for link type belts for future changes, once you’v got the mandrel settled in,leave it, thelink belt, what ever make saves a lot of time, and sweat. Ian S C

Sorry not a Myford type so can’t help with your bearing problem.
29 December 2010 at 12:02 #61383
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
Posted by Gordon A on 29/12/2010 09:08:25:

Hi Tony,

You could try ringing Myford on + 44 (0)1159 254 222. They have given me advice over the phone in the past.

Gordon.

It’s Christmas !!
30 December 2010 at 20:54 #61478
Alan Worland 1
Participant
@alanworland1
Whwn I had the spindle out, I backed off the end float adjustment before removal, then on assy I lowered the spindle and caps in position with the cap screws just nipping, I then tightened the end float adjuster so that it would ‘align’ the rear bearing.

Once the caps screws were done up I then set the end float – seemed to work ok
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