Please report back! Although gluing and/or pushing with the tailstock are recognised methods, the fixing they provide isn't as firm as gripping in a chuck. I often glue to a mandrel for cleaning up discs and have never had one come off, light-cuts only though.

Supergluing two clean metal surfaces together results in a remarkably strong bond, as you may be upset to find when trying to get them apart, but the bond is weaker sideways, so hard sideways cutting like parting-off could go pear-shaped! Same with creating a friction grip by pushing with the tailstock; side, heavy or interrupted cuts are likely to cause trouble. Take it easy.

Never tried glue and tailstock pressure together. I guess it will be significantly stronger.

The tailstock method may not be possible if the tailstock, saddle, or tool-post foul each other. I guess a 'live centre extender' could be made to overcome that, but I've never had the need.

Dave

I like that a lot, thanks Tim. Not just for the job in question but I can see lots of other times your idea would be helpful.

David

I recently made a mandrel for some aluminium parts. The centre was Ø32 so I didn't have the size issues you are worrying about. I put a hole through the mandrel than hacksawed a split along the axis so the resulting tubular spigot could be spread and used a MT2 to MT1 sleeve to spread it when the part was over it. Combined with a live centre this made the mounting solid but easy to release. If you can turn a suitable tapered pin on a piece of stock with a centre drilled hole in the end you could do something similar on a smaller scale if you get a live centre or use Tim's bearing method.

Martin C

Would help to know what other operations you intend to do on the workpiece.

All you have said is that it is 2.2" dia and it needs a 0.250" hole.

That could have been done with it in the chuck (reverse jaws) and no need for an arbor

Without knowing if anything else needs to be done to it it would be pure guess work as to whether the arbor is upto the task.

But if you need to turn the OD then I would have gone for a longer spigot turned to fit the hole cut onto a larger diameter piece of material. Thread the end of the spigot for a nut and drill the end of the spigot with a small ctr drill for tailstock support. The shoulder created by using larger stock provides enough friction to stop the job slipping so no need for loctite etc

This sort of thing

Edited By JasonB on 20/07/2023 19:00:51

Edited By JasonB on 20/07/2023 19:07:00

In which case try what you have using light cuts with sharp HSS or **GT inserts or change to the arbor shape I showed.

If there is/was spare material on the length then I would have opted for soft jaws and done the OD, hole and one face all in one setting. Then reverse to face to length. You probably don't have soft jaws but they are worth having.

lathe soft jaws are unhardened steel and can be machined to suit the job, on a part like that a recess say 1mm deep is cut into the face of the jaws to the required diameter and you then just hold the job by a very short length.

The **GT polished inserts meant for non ferrous metals will work fine on a small lathe and don't need a high spindle speed. You could do the OD of that at 500rpm with Carbide.