Hi, I'm not sure what you are saying about the pulley, it does look like a Polly-V, there should not be any rubber in the grooves, they should be clean and yes, the ridges of the pulley grooves will be fairly sharp.

A small ish wire brush wheel in a drill should clean up the grooves.

If your photo showed the end of the shaft it might be possible someone could suggest how to remove it.

Could it be taper lock

It looks like pretty normal Poly Vee pulley and once the rubber remnants are removed will make excellent contact with the matching 'V' shaped ribs on the belt.

Ian P

They have a lot of contact surface area thanks to all those groove walls, but even a flat pulley will drive if correctly set up.

Hammering things, even if a little more gentlemanly in approach than Ady's colourful suggestion, is more likely to maker things worse than better.

The boss on the end suggests to me possibly a taper fitting, if not a 'Taper-Loc' (it is a trade-mark) then something similar. Though what's that slight, circular bulge on the face lurking in the shadows? Not hiding one of those "sneaky" grub-screws, is it?

They don't have to be sharp at the top and I think it is better if they are not since the rubber belt has a small radius at the bottom of the groove. You can find details of the shape in makers catalogues. There are several different sections, for instance PJ section is a 40 degree angle and the spacing of the grooves is .091 thou.

Pulleys are not hard to make, or else they are sold in a range of sizes and widths. The belts are sold to the width you order, they have a wide piece for each standard length and cut it to the number of ribs you need. The belts don't need a lot of tension and run quiet and smooth. They will go around smaller pulleys than V belts.

John

Yes Sonic, that should do it if not locked ! It's keyed so look for grub screws. Noel.

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One of the many merits of Poly-V is that the belts will wrap around very small diameter pulleys.

MichaelG.

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Edit: __ Just noticed that John Olsen has already mentioned that ^^^

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/07/2023 07:07:49

Just found this: **LINK**

Pulleys and Belts – Poly-V

… which might give you some hints about the pulley fixing system

MichaelG.

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Ref. __ https://sitspa.com/locking-devices/ser-sit-taper-bushing/

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/07/2023 08:01:52

Make sure that there are not 2 grub screws as the sometimes do this to reduce the chance of them unscrewing with vibration. If the pully is made of aluminium heating it is more likely to work as it's coeficient of expansion is higher than steel.
If the Clarke Bearing Splitter will not get between the pully and the motor end plate then making a wooden clamp to grip the sides of the pully might work. Get 2 pieces of wood with a thickness about the same as the length of the pulley and a bit wider then the pulley diameter. Bolt them together with 2 lengths of threaded rod. Then bore a hole through them centered on the joint and a diameter slightly less than the core diameter of the V grooves.. You can then clamp this around the pulley. Then use 2 or 4 lengths of threaded rod between the wooden clamp and the metal plate with the screw to push against the end of the shaft. So you noe have a home made puller thet should grip the pully without damaging it. Also putting "plus gas" (Penetrating oil.) into the grub screw hole and the end of the shaft may help.

Les,

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 01/07/2023 09:36:08

The keyway and the washer and end bolt indicate a parallel shaft, looks greased so should come off easy ! Diogenes has shown the type of puller I had in mind. I bought one years ago with 2 sets of extension bolts to remove rear wheel bearings from half shafts. Noel.

"There were two SET screws" ??? Given that there was a washer and retaining screw on the end of the shaft would suggest the pulley could float off the shaft at worst case of non clamping.

Regards Ian.

Possible clues are the drilling in the boss (which may house a grub screw?) and the paint(?) missing on the end of the pulley (maybe indicating a large washer was there?), the keyway and key – there might be more.

One thing that is unlikely to be good news is hitting it with a hammer! A suitable puller is the obvious ‘weapon-of-choice’ for safe removal (as I doubt there is a hydraulic press available).

I wondered what the lines, on the end of the motor shaft, at 60 degree intervals were for…