I use a cheaper version of one of THESE when I have made handles for my home made woodturning tools and then just deburr the inside

Cut it off with a mini hacksaw then mount it on a steel stub mandrel turned down in situ to a tight fit inside the copper with a half to one thou taper over its length. Tap the copper ring into position on the taper and clean up the end with a sharp HSS turning tool. Finished ring can be tapped off the taper. Or heated and it will fall off.

I use end-feed Yorkshire straight pipe fittings cut in two with a hacksaw and then retrued once supported on the wooden handle. Another advantage is that the internal diameter is standard.

CAREFULLY wrap a piece of insulating tape round the pipe so the start and finish line up as a line all the way round, this is your guide, then cut with a junior hacksaw ! For larger diameters use the edge of a sheet of paper ! Noel.

Bear in mind that copper tube will crush in a 3 jaw chuck so it is near impossible to grip it tight without a mandrel to support it. For a one off ferrule I think I would avoid the breakthrough and finish cutting off with a junior hacksaw and tidy up with a file. If I was going to make a bag full for stock I would make an expanding mandrel. A six jaw chuck can be useful for thin walled tube but is quite an investment unless you do a lot of tube work, of course it is useful for ordinary work and is often seen on Stefan Gotteswinter’s lathe as his regular chuck.

Mike

Hi Hopper

I just posted on another thread about getting my leg cut off.

Then when I logged back on this thread came straight up with your post.

I wondered what you were on about, cutting it off on a hack saw and mount it on a stub mandrel.

I thought it was a joke particularly with reference to stub mandrel. .

I really thought I was losing the plot.

Hi Hoper, they will never remove my sense of humour no matter how hard they try.