Ml7 clutch trouble

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Ml7 clutch trouble

This topic has 11 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 1 June 2022 at 17:40 by Chris Murphy.

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31 May 2022 at 17:44 #600093
Chris Murphy
Participant
@chrismurphy94983
Hi all,

need help again I’m afraid.

when I activate the clutch the chuck is still turning although very slow unless I push in and hold the clutch handle.

I can’t seem to see where I can adjust anything.

also in one of the pictures it looks like I have a grub screw missing.

can anyone offer any help, I hope the clutch is not faulty and it we always be like this.

thanks

chris m….
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31 May 2022 at 17:44 #11224
Chris Murphy
Participant
@chrismurphy94983
31 May 2022 at 20:30 #600111
Swarf, Mostly!
Participant
@swarfmostly
Good evening, Chris,

Here's an exploded diagram of the Myford 1466 Countershaft Clutch unit for the ML7:

I draw your attention to part number 44. On my unit, this is made of brass. Your photo looks different.

Also, look at part numbers 49 and 50. Part number 50 (2-off) is a rectangular block of red fibre that engages with the groove in part 44. Part 49 (2-off) secures part 50 and permits the parts to be adjusted to engage properly. Thus, operating the lever moves the pair of part 50, pushing the rotating part 44 and the operating rod, part 76, to engage or disengage the clutch.

Study the diagram, compare with your clutch and then come back and we can discuss some more.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!
31 May 2022 at 20:40 #600116
Swarf, Mostly!
Participant
@swarfmostly
Hello, again, Chris,

I've had another look at your photos and maybe you have part 44 OK, it's just concealed by part 47. Please confirm whether you do have parts 44, 49 & 50.

If your clutch is OK at that end, then there could be a problem at the other end of the operating rod. There is an adjustment at that end. Unfortunately, the picture I posted doesn't show that end of the clutch. There are more clutch pictures in my album but they are a bit 'microdot'!! Maybe, given a bit of time, I can find a better picture of the other end of the device.

Over to you.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!
31 May 2022 at 21:09 #600121
Chris Murphy
Participant
@chrismurphy94983
Hi,

thanks for replying.

yeah it looks like I do have those parts and like I said the chuck stop spinning if I push the handle in a bit.

obviously something is not connecting properly.

I think I’m missing a grub screw as in the picture, would that be the cause.

thanks

chris m…..
1 June 2022 at 09:11 #600154
Swarf, Mostly!
Participant
@swarfmostly
Good morning, Chris,

I can't see any missing grub screw in your photos. Part number 29 seems to be present.

Here's another version of the exploded diagram:

I'm afraid it's a bit small but I hope that you can decipher it.

I think the parts you need to explore now are parts 10 and 12. Part 10 and its locknut are an adjustment point. Part 12 transfers the movement of the operating rod to the clutch lever, part 8, that, in turn, opens or closes the pair of shoes to make or cease contact with the drum. The drum isn't visible in that diagram but it's on the other side of the pulley, part 5 (or 6! ).

Does this help?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!
1 June 2022 at 09:55 #600169
Chris Murphy
Participant
@chrismurphy94983
Hi,

I did screw the adjuster nut in and out but still didn’t stop the chuck from turning, like I said if I press the clutch lever in slightly the chuck stop so it seems like something is not contacting properly.

thanks

chris m….
1 June 2022 at 11:33 #600186
Hopper
Participant
@hopper
There is a bit more to adjusting the clutch than screwing the screw in and out. See below.

Note also where it says make sure there is clearance between the "shoe support plate" (aka moped front brake plate!!) and the pulley so it does not drag (and cause the chuck to turn). This end float is adjusted by the thrust collar, presumeably by the grub screw,which appears to be in place in your pic. It has that sunken hex head recess down in the hole.

This end float adjustment may well explain why when you push the lever, the chuck stops turning, because the lever pushes the countershaft along and creates the necessary clearance between the shoe plate and the pulley.

Another thing it could be is the bushing in the middle of the pulley is dry of oil and gripping the shaft enough to turn it slowly when the clutch is disengaged. Might just need some lube, or some cleaning up.

If all else fails, turn the lathe over by hand with the clutch cover off and look and listen for what is dragging. Could be the backing plate on the pulley or could be the shoes on the drum. Then make suitable adjustment to establish clearance. That little pushrod mechanism that operates the moped brake is as mickey mouse a piece of engineering as ever graced a production engineer's desk and will need to be set just right.

Edited By Hopper on 01/06/2022 11:37:04

Edited By Hopper on 01/06/2022 11:41:29

Edited By Hopper on 01/06/2022 11:44:07

Edited By Hopper on 01/06/2022 11:50:12
1 June 2022 at 12:11 #600189
Chris Murphy
Participant
@chrismurphy94983
Hi,

many thanks for your continued help.

I’ll try the things you said, because I’d like to get this working properly or there’s no point having a clutch.

is was working ok a couple of days ago.

cheers

chris m…
1 June 2022 at 12:20 #600190
Hopper
Participant
@hopper
Posted by Chris Murphy on 01/06/2022 12:11:02:

…

It was working ok a couple of days ago.

Welcome to the wonderful world of vintage British machinery.

You should try one of their motorbikes!!
1 June 2022 at 16:22 #600215
SillyOldDuffer
Moderator
@sillyoldduffer
Posted by Chris Murphy on 01/06/2022 12:11:02:

…

I’ll try the things you said, because I’d like to get this working properly or there’s no point having a clutch.

…

At this stage of the game I'd be building a to-do list rather than trying to fix everything as I spot it. A clutch that doesn't quite disengage is much less urgent than a clutch that refuses to spin the chuck at all.

Many lathes don't have clutches and their owners manage perfectly well without them. Clutches are useful for certain types of work, but if I was just starting out as a beginner with a lathe in unknown condition, there are plenty of other things I'd want sorted first. In the worst case, unwise to fix the clutch if the bearings and bed are worn beyond repairing.

After making sure the machine is electrically safe and the essential controls work, it's good to start by making something simple like the Centre-punch I mentioned earlier.

Cutting metal reveals problems with machines, materials and operators in short order, and experiencing them is very helpful when deciding what caused later disasters! At first, it's confusing. A trainee can make a complete mess of a job on a perfect machine while experts get good results out of kit in poor condition. What's really difficult is identifying cause of grief when a trainee fits a strange HSS tool to a maladjusted or worn machine and then gets a bad finish after turning unknown scrap metal. As there must be over a dozen faults that might be responsible for poor finish, it's good to eliminate them before fixing secondary problems.

I feel getting the best out of a lathe is best approached one step at a time, like eating an elephant!

None of the above applies if you're having fun doing it your way or like to learn by jumping in at the deep end! It's a wonderful hobby…

Dave
1 June 2022 at 17:40 #600224
Chris Murphy
Participant
@chrismurphy94983
Hi,

looks like I solved it hopefully, I tightened the two nut up nice and tight that you see in the picture on the clutch arm and now the chuck stops how it should.

so fingers crossed all is good so far.

chris m…..
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