Hi Jordan.

See here: link to thread

In the few years I have been paying serious attention Myfords have dropped in price dramatically, such that sound machines with necessary accessories come up weekly for money comparable to ubiquitous small Chinese lathes. This makes them very attractive indeed. A good one will work for half a century without major work being required as long as it is protected from rust.

There are a few high-spec machines for silly money, collectors love them and there are those with pockets to match.

If you decide you need to make bigger stuff, and never want to do fiddly things then larger bench-top or free-standing machines from the partner organisations on the right of the page are well worth looking at.

If you buy new Chinese equipment you'll have some kind of come-back from the supplier if it's faulty,

That may depend on the supplier. Some are cheap and less than cheerful – and may even be built from rejected parts.

Choose your supplier carefully.

The question has been debated endlessly on here before including a recent thread on a Warco BH600G vs Myford that would ne wort looking at.

What lathe you should buy will depend on what you want to make. You are unlikely to be able to skim big brake discs on a Peatol, good as they are.

By the same token, you would not make watch parts on a 21" Dean Smith and Grace!

What ever you buy, get a machine that is a bit larger than you first think. Your horizons will expand, as you gain experience and confidence..

You will soon find that a lot of "Basket cases" can be reclaimed using parts made on the lathe!

FWIW

My first lathe was a pre owned (Don't know by how many! ) Myford ML7.

By the time that I sold it it had acquired : a few extra 20T gears and a 127T gear, Long Cross Slide and resettable Micrometer dials on Top and Cross Slide, as well as a new Countershaft and Bushes.

Why did I sell it?

FED UP with the 2MT headstocki bore, meaning that anything larger than 1/2" could not pass through, so continually chopping off short larger diameter pieces with resulting wasted material.

Using a Rodney milling attachment on it showed up a lack of rigidity. Maybe I was being over zealous?

Replaced it, when I retired, with an Engineers ToolRoom BL12 – 24. This is a Warco BH600G, or Chester Craftsmanj lookalike. It has a Norton gearbox, and a 120/127T Idler so changing from Metric to Imperial screwcutting is easy. The 5MT Headstock bore, with 5 – 3MT step down sleeve copes with my needs.

These will swing a maximum of 12", or 18" if the gap is removed.

Having power feeds for both facing and sliding is a boon..

Normally a 1.5 hp or 2 hp single phase motor would be fitted, providing 12 speeds with back gear, but I opted for a 1.5 hp three phase motor fed from a VFD, leaving six variable speed ranges..

It came with 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks, Faceplate, fixed and travelling Steadies, and a halogen work light..

At the time, the BH600 could be ordered in either Imperial or Metric form. The Chester Craftsman was Metric only, (although I believe that some Imperial ones were sold ) and the BL12 – 24 is dual dialled.

These belt driven machines have been superceded by Gear Head machine, although some can be less versatile than their predecessors. Read the specification, if you can find it!

It has served me well for nearly 20 years, and is unlikely to be sold during my lifetime.

There is probably no machine that is ABSOLUTELY ideal for all purposes, but some are better than others.

Screw fitting chucks, unless retained (By "dogs" on the BH600, Crafftsman and BL12-24 ) can make reverse running fraught, (If not dangerous should a chuck unscrew! ) It is not impossible, but needs a great deal of care.

Some older machines may be very capable, but the drawback can be obtaining spares, Chuck backplates, or things like changewheels, if any are missing or damaged.

In extremis, Backplates can be made, possibly on the actual machine. Gears can be cut, if you have a Mill and Dividing Head or Rotary Table, or know some one who has.

You pays your money and makes your choice.

Make allowance in the budget for suitable tooling, (Including Taps and Dies and Tap Wrenches and Die Holders )and measuring equipment..

If buying secondhand, and you are not confident, take some one along who is familiar with machines, when you look at a machine.

This is a very good reason to find and join a local Model Engineering Society.

DON'T be taken in by an old machine in shiny paint! A dirty machine in good condition may be a better buy than a shiny clapped out wreck!

HTH

Howar5d

Although, a lot of those larger diameter jobs can be done in the Myford using a fixed steady. Up to 3 or 4" diameter. Can be used to save material by machining the job on the end of a 12 or 18" length of bar then part it off. Works surprisingly well.