Bolt Hole A is for a screwcutting dial indicator. Hole B is for a travelling steady. and holes C are for the screwcutting gearbox. Google the above for photos of them. If you're going to be doing any screwcutting you'll need the indicator.

Yes, there is generally a little play in the toggle link. It shouldn't be of concern.

Hope that helps!

On mine A and B are 1/4BSF,can’t help with the others I’m afraid

My Super 7 is about the same age as Tug's and all the holes indicated on your photo are 1/4" BSF on my lathe.

Rod

Don't know if the ML10 had it but look for the device that locks the headstock spindle to stop it turning when

fitting/removing the chuck.

Ignatz

I just checked my Super 7 (1976) and, although I have never been aware of it, there is some play in the bull wheel, about .010" at the periphery of the gear. As far as the threads go, as stated above, "A" is for the thread dial indicator ( on mine a 1/4 BSF stud and nut), "B" is 1/4 BSF for the traveling steady, and "C" for fixing the quick change gearbox (on mine this is M6x1.0).

John

Sorry for two unsolicited comments in addition to suggesting you have a good looking Super7B there.

(1) What size bolts are employed to hold down the lathe onto the raising blocks? From your photo it appears there are small dome nuts which I'd suggest are maybe inadequate to ensure it's secured level for prolonged use. The S7 bed will flex more than your previous ML10 and truly accurate levelling is really important.

(2) If you have the original "V" belt driving from countershaft (i.e. a solid, continuous belt) then replacing it with a multi-link belt (e.g. Brammer) will not only make for a smoother running & cutting S7 but will also reduce that "subtle noise" you hear.

Is that a "zero-able" dial on the carriage hand wheel? Why?

Many would query the wisdom of the use of link belt on the myford lathes ! Bolts are 1/4" BSF I have bolts in lenghts from 3/4" to 4" if you need them. Spindle lock is hidden behind the change wheel guard, took me 10 years to find mine. Good luck, Noel

I agree about the grinder being close to the lathe, perhaps it just lives there out of the way and gets used elsewhere .

I always try and do any grinding outside and never in the machine workshop .

Adrian.

That looks like a very nice machine.

I think that what you call the toggle link is the back gear key in Myford speak. Mine certainly has some rotational play but I can't say it's a problem in practice. An associated point is the importance of lubricating the spindle via the nipple in the pulley.

I believe that Myfords did use some metric fasteners in later production, an example being the big-headed cap screws securing the saddle to the apron.

I have one of those too. Mine is a Graham Meek special bought at a show about 10 years ago. I believe some more were manufactured after that initial batch. It is actually better to use than the handwheel. It's faster perfectly accurate to 1' or so, you can set to zero and you don't have the pain of counting in batches of 0.125" per revolution. Use it and enjoy it.

I made Grahams tailstock micrometer for my Myford too, that one counts in sensible numbers too.

regards Martin

Edited By Martin Kyte on 14/10/2021 16:13:56

Edited By Martin Kyte on 14/10/2021 16:15:05

No doubt you'll receive a variety of answers to your queries !

• Which size segmented belt is correct for the Super 7?
  It appears there are no 'hard & fast rules'. I've seen on the (new) Myford stand that their belts are much thinner i.e less thick, than the Fenner or Brammer belts. I went with the thicker belt & it's hard to provide you with a dimension given its nature. However you might get some idea from this:-

  

  Advantages? # smoother running & no pattern when light turning due to orig solid belt joint running over pulleys. # can be fitted without removing the mandrel & disturbing bearings.
  Disadvantages? # provokes bad language when trying to remove a link # they stretch (mine needs 1 link removing after about 5 years – a job that is regularly put off) # they don't "bed down" into the pulleys as well as the 'solid' belt when taking a deep cut meaning they can slip when old. That's not necessarily a bad thing.

• Does one change just the belt running from the jack shaft to the lathe or the motor belt as well?
  Only ever used it between countershaft & mandrel.
• Does running a segmented belt in reverse cause problems in practice? Here I’m referencing the need to run the motor both forward and reverse for threading.
  Never experienced that, even when being forced to cut with lathe in reverse BUT work in collet not of course in chuck or on faceplate !

  Anyway, I’m going to hold off for the moment as the standard V-belts appear to be in very good condition. Truth to tell, I ran a few test cuts today and the machine is already so much quieter relative to the old ML-10 that I’m not sure I even need extra sound/vibration dampening.
  It's at high speed that you'd notice the benefits compared with the original hard belt.

Ignatz

You say you checked the holes with some drill shanks. Be aware the core diameter of 1/4 BSF and M6x1.0 are almost the same so your hole "C" may be either.

John