Time to attend to that cross-slide stop.. ..doesn't have to be anything elaborate, but any kind of repetition work becomes so much easier..

Edited By DiogenesII on 18/08/2021 06:52:38

+1 to what Jason says about capstan and repetition lathe tooling.

That problem was solved many, many years ago to make "end-on" manufacture of accurate components possible. Since then the number of components produced on capstan and repetition lathes is way beyond convenient, or even inconvenient, counting.

Time to start digging in the historical records to find something simple to make, easy to set up and effective. Modern box tooling tends to be a bit overkill and somewhat specialised for small ranges of sizes.

Easiest would be a simple disk with a slot in it to carry a short length of HSS as the tool bit. Slot needs to be angled at the back so the side of the tool bit cannot come into contact with the job and mar the face. If working brass you can probably get away with no rake as the cut is shallow. Tool setting becomes much easier.

As the cutting tip has to be on centre any top rake makes life more complicated. Back in the day tool setting was a job for a specialist.

I'd just set up stops and have at it "side on" in the normal manner with an old fashioned wide parting tool. Of which I have several in stock which mostly get used for this sort of thing. But my lathes are much more industrial than yours.

The modern professional uses a diamond shape insert.

Clive

Some of you may remember my seeking advice about a similar problem some time ago.

I had made an adjustable stop for my cross slide, which worked, sort of, but was just too light.

The advice I received was to beef it up, and Hey Presto it worked !

I still use it from time to time and once set, it is a pleasure to use, since it has three different settings.

Easy enough to make.

Watchmakers use "rose bits" for this kind of thing, but on a much smaller scale!

Tubal Cain ( the original one) describes how to make them in his book "Simple Workshop Devices"

Rod

That's what I did when I needed to machine an enclosed spigot:

I'm not convinced a roller box would be suitable. They're designed to machine long parts to diameter, not short spigots. Herbert did sell one indended to machine to a shoulder, but I expect they're in rocking horse territory. If I was making the part on the repetition lathe I'd use a knife tool and just set stops for diameter and depth. For a lot of parts I'd machine in two stages, a plunge cut to rough out and then a finishing cut on diameter and shoulder.

Andrew

A box tool might do the job.

Neil

I needed to create a 8mm diameter spigot within a cavity, an engineer pal opened up the internal bore of the rotabroach cutter to suit. To create a depth stop i inserted an 8mm plug of the required length to bottom out on the toolholder held in the tailstock turret. Repeatability to required accuracy and the rotabroach assisted with centering.

Robert Butler

Hollow mills are available. Here s an example:

**LINK**

Die heads like Geometric, Coventry, Landis, etc can be equipped with chasers that function like a hollow mill.

If the object is to produce the spigot, what is the matter with turning the OD of the spigot and finally facing to length?