the one with two wheels + a sisor like action to adjust to the bar and one that will fit in the tool post – the WM180 doesn’t have the power to handle the single wheel type nor is the tool post big enough to take most – I bought mine I think from ARC but WARCO do a similar type but even then needed to mill part of the holding bar to fit the 180.

There are several designs that you can make yourself Warco sell the hardened cutters – there was an interesting design by Jacques Chirac? in one of the mags abt 3 years ago that used non bevelled wheels to cut rather than crush the metal

I bought scissor type and have good results from my WM180, didn't need to mill part of the holding bar though

Recommend starting with soft material to practice on with lubricant, for me knurling is a confidence thing so I start with light clamp then tighten until I achieve the result I am aiming for

An easy begiinners job is to replace the hand-dial knobs, plenty of operations to build confidence, I did mine in brass

**THIS** pdf describes a clamp type knurling tool that I designed and made many years ago. It gives full details and dimensions. It works well and I've used it many times.

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Nicely designed, and very clearly presented, Gary … Thanks for sharing it.

MichaelG.

Hi, I have one similar to Knurling Tool I may have even got my one from them, but it was so long ago I can't remember, however it has worked satisfactory for my needs.

Regards Nick.

Indeed it was. Was how apprentice toolmakers were taught to do it back in the ancient days of yore. A 10" flat single-cut mill file was the weapon of choice, used on the finished knurl spun in the lathe. Just enough to knock the sharp points and burrs off the knurls. Should be done as a matter of course on all knurling. Straight knurling works very well on things like cross slide dials and is easier again on the hands, after a touch up with the fine file. If you don't file it, a diamond knurl is basically like a rasp and I reckon you could use it to machine wood.

Likewise I often notice homemade tool posts, cross slides, dividing heads and the like made from chucks of bright mild steel square bar with all the sharp corners left on, just waiting to smash knuckles and hands of the unwary. A few minutes to file a nice radius along each edge where two faces meet makes it all a lot more user-friendly. The bigger the radius, the more user friendly it is. Sharp corners always look half-done to me.

Edited By Hopper on 08/03/2021 10:55:53

I have both clamp and push in types. Almost invariably the clamp type is used.

This is equipped to give a diamond knurl.

The push in one is for straight knurls, and is only rarely used, and then in gentle steps, out of regard for the Headstock bearings..

As an Apprentice I was told to use no more than 0.010" ( 0.25 mm) depth., and have always this quite sufficient.

If you overdo things when making adjusting screw, the work can shear off!

Howard

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Sorry … No

But I certainly like the look of it !!

MichaelG.

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Edit: Post #5 here, suggests that I might have a good eye:

 https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/bridgeport-and-hardinge-mills-and-lathes/knurling-hlv-h-371172/

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 08/03/2021 15:45:12

I like to have the fixed steady between the knurl and the headstock to take some of the load off the Myford's baby bearings for this reason when push knurling.