Which particular aspect is causing you problems?
If it's cutting large-diameter holes in thin sheet-metal I'd look at using a step-drill or cone-drill of nearest to drawing size. (Step-drills advance in 1 or 0.5mm steps – since 'Tich' is a freelance design not a fine-scale replica, the portholes a mm over or under won't spoil the appearance.)
Or if you have a milling-machine and boring-head, hole-saw or step-drill the bulk out and bore to finished size. Be aware that a hole-saw is likely to cut a rather ragged hole above its nominal diameter.
The window trim is best turned and you could try super-gluing the blank to a thick disc of some suitable backing material to hold in the 4-jaw chuck or screwed to the face-plate. Be thorough with the gluing and take only light cuts. Use heat to break the bond afterwards.
If you use glass there are ways to cut discs from it, usually based on what is effectively a tubular lap. I have not tried it so can't vouch for its ease or efficacy
Acrylic or polycarbonate sheet "glazing" might be best made by using double-sided tape to stick a blank sawn circular but slightly over-size to a disc and trimmed to diameter on the lathe, as with the bezels. I'm not sure what the best solvent for un-sticking them and removing the residue without attacking the plastic might be, though. Soaking in warm soapy water? Or a kitchen cleanser? (Test on a scrap of the material first.)