I think it is good to talk. Any excuse. And good to talk about things that have been talked about already in every conceivable way.

Which lathe? In this forum that should be a bit like the English discussing the weather. Everyone has an opinion and can contribute. So thanks for the question.

My conclusion is that if you don't know much about lathes, and particularly if you don't know how to evaluate the state of wear or potential troubles on an old lathe, then get a new one from one of the big distributers. ArcEuro, Amadeal, Warco, Chester, and someone I probably have forgotten – sorry. There are hundreds of people who have had great experience from all of them.

.There will be hundreds of people who have had bad experiences. Seems like that is just a risk of life.

If you know about lathes then you probably already have formed some more concrete desire for what you would like. If you have a lathe then you probably had an idea of several other lathes you would like. Sometimes those desires will not go away with simple reasoning and you have to get it out of your system. It might end in dissapointment but it is the only way.

I have a Myford super 7. I'm not completely happy with it. I don't get great results and, because of my ignorance, I'm not sure if it is the tool or me. It might be that the tool is worn out. It might be that it isn't set up right.

One thing I do find limiting about Myford (and all my other lathes….) is the size of the hole through the headstock. Modern lathes of similar external dimensions tend to have bigger holes.

Some things don't bother me – and because of that I might not be aware of them. The Myford has a big cross-slide. Huge travel and a big surface to bolt things to. I don't think I appreciate that enough and might find other small lathes limiting.

If my workshop dissappeard and I had cash to start again I think I might start with the ArcEuro SC5. It is relatively easy to move about. I probably wouldn't get a Myford unless I splashed out and got a nearly-new.

If I had unlimited space and funds then I want a few lathes . I want a Schaublin plain bed, A Hardinge HLV-H Lathe , a Colchester, a CNC Sherline with the massive cross slide, a Haas, a better Pultra, a Boley F1…..

Edited By jaCK Hobson on 06/02/2021 10:35:19

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Size? What is the largest diameter you need to machine, a flywheel? How long is the longest piece you need to machine, a half shaft? Are you working in metric or imperial?

if you start there you can start looking at specific machine sizes, when you see a machine can it fit in the space you have. As most will say get the newest and largest machine you can fit in. Remember a larger machine will most likely come as three phase so additional electrical work required in the form of a converter.

for most of us it boils down to a set of compromises, how much have i got to spend, what size lathe do i need, will it be new or second hand, have i got the knowledge to sort a second hand one out or fettle a new one.

If you have bottomless pockets then go for the biggest and best you can, me! I paid what I could afford (not a lot) and got the (what I considered) the best bang for my bucks. I hjave not regretted my decision, yes! a larger lathe would be better but I restrict my projects size wise to accommodate what I have.

The same applies to a milling machine which will probably be your next major purchase – the same rules apply here too.

Only after you have purchased will YOU be able to assess if you made the right decision, it is like buying a house for the first time, it is only when you have to live in it that you now know what you want from a house, the next purchase will be nearer to what you want, only money being the deciding factor.

Enjoy the journey, this is only the first step on a long one……..

What WE have bought and the why's may not help YOU make a decision

Ah yes! I want one of them as well.

Edited By jaCK Hobson on 06/02/2021 10:40:23

You seem to want a lathe for the exact reasons I bought a mini-lathe. If you're going to use it on and for car parts then you want one of the bigger machines. This is for a number of reasons:

Most parts won't fit a Unimat!

They tend to need a lot of material removal, or fairly large holes drilled. To me, an M5 thread is small. That isn't the case if you're making model steam engines! Shaving off 0.5mm at a time gets old really fast.

That material will be steel, or similar, so power and rigidity are required.

Bigger lathes tend to cut a wider range of threads.

Buying a worn out machine as a beginner who wants to make parts is a terrible idea: you don't know what is and isn't working properly, you don't know what you're doing wrong, rebuilding it requires a range of skills you might not have, how do you make the parts the lathe needs, the machine might be cheap but fixing it won't be, your real projects get delayed.

I didn't want to be reliant on friends to make things like bushes, spacers, adapters, tools etc for my car projects. I don't have a lot of space, so a small bench-top machine was a requirement, especially once I'd actually seen a Myford in the metal. I had never used a lathe before, so a working machine was necessary. I looked at several used Myfords, that were both expensive and knackered – they're just machines, and a mechanic should be able to recognise abuse and damage. After some months of looking I bought a Clarke C300 from Machine Mart, took it and the cutting tools home, plonked it on the bench and an hour later had a couple of simple bushes on the car. My next job was to repair the freezer handle I had broken years before.

Over the next 13 years I learnt to make more complicated parts, but found that I was often stretching the size limits of the machine – a job that came up a few times was to reduce a Capri hub by 5mm, which the lathe would swing, but wasn't big enough to get a tool on – and the time taken was frustrating. Acquiring a vertical slide quickly proved inadequate for my milling requirements, so I filled up space I don't have with a mini-mill.

That's why I upgraded to a 10×22, which does all of my jobs better, easier and faster. Because I had proved that I had a frequent use for it, it could take up space at the end of the bench rather than get moved around. I sold the C300 with most of the tooling(I kept the QCTP and collet chuck) for what a bare machine cost, which I think is a pretty good return.

Not being able to finish a job because you're missing a basic piece of equipment is very frustrating, so a lathe needs 3&4 jaw chucks, several cutting tools ready to go, a drill chuck for the tailstock and a fixed steady. I've used the face plate once, so far. I still haven't turned anything between centres, or needed the travelling steady even though I've had them for years. I bought all this for the C300; the bigger machine came with them. All this stuff, plus the measuring kit takes up space, so bear that in mind.

Edited By Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 06/02/2021 10:55:34

Good to start by asking yourself a few questions! In no particular order:

1. What sort of work do you intend doing? Jack mentions the Super7's headstock has a small spindle hole, which is major problem for some activities (gunsmithing, threading pipes, larger restoration work etc.), but the headstock restriction might not matter to you at all. However, as a general rule BIG lathes are better than SMALL lathes, UNLESS you major on small precision work like clocks, where big lathes are a clumsy PITA. The Myford 7s are about the right size for most amateur work (ie to fit in a garage or shed) but I went Chinese because I needed a slightly larger machine and could choose one from a range. Are you imperial or metric? Most lathes will do both, but old imperial lathes may not come with the necessary change gear -127 or 63 teeth – and some metric lathes don't shine at imperial. You almost certainly want to do screw-cutting, if not a plain lathe would do.
2. Are you happy with the risk and bother of buying second-hand? A lathe's condition matters far more than who made it. Broken clutches and jambed gearboxes are useless! Spares and accessories can be hard to find. Restoring old equipment is a hobby in itself, but having to spend lots of time and money fixing up an old lathe is a right pain if it was bought to cut metal. How do you feel about fixer-uppers? What's on the second-hand market ranges from scrap to absolute bargains. An objection to Myford lathes is high cost. Too many are prepared to pay over the odds to own one, even if it's a complete wreck! (Brand-names do not protect goods from abuse and accidents, and a Myford could be 70 years old…) And due to the shift to CNC there are plenty of ex-industrial lathes available at affordable prices – better made than Myford. These are a good choice if you have the room, and the electrics can be sorted. Buying second-hand safely requires a certain amount of knowledge and many prefer to buy new.
3. Are you happy buying a Far Eastern Hobby Lathe? Lots of choice, but they are made down to a price – affordable, but a bit rough. A proportion are so bad as to be unacceptable but, bought in the UK, this is low risk because consumer protection applies. As the industrial equivalents are 6 to 20 times more expensive, don't expect tool-room quality from hobby lathes! For hobby use they are fine, but some are irritated by their lack of finesse, and others genuinely need high-end gear for the work they are doing. (Given time and skill good work can be done on rather poor equipment, but this isn't acceptable when time is money. Professionals need good tools more than amateurs, because the latter are indulging a hobby, not earning a crust!)
4. Budget! Many a bright-eyed bushy tailed prospective machinist comes to grief on this. The amount of cash and physical space available is always limited. This might mean the lathe has to fit under the stairs, in a potting-shed, or in a single-garage. Worse, 'She Who Must Be Obeyed' may have strong views on boys buying toys when babies need feeding and there are cushions and throws to be bought. So most of us have to compromise, which depends on what we have and want to achieve. It's not just the lathe, money and space are also needed for tools, accessories, materials and a workbench. Fairly soon a milling machine will be wanted, and – absolutely essential – a band-saw. Don't panic, workshops can be built up over time, but a little thought can make it easier.

As a beginner without a mechanical background, I was nervous of buying second-hand. (An early attempt at buying a second-hand Myford through Exchange and Mart was a disaster! ) Although interested in lathes for decades, I didn't know much about them or exactly what they did. Sparey's The Amateur Lathe was very helpful, and I read Model Engineer avidly. (Later discovering Model Engineering Workshop was an even better match to my interests.) After much too much dithering I bought a mini-lathe (small, quiet, easy to lift, does all the basics), and then the fun started. I regret the time wasted not getting on with it! After a few years I had far clearer ideas about what I needed, and, on retiring, had the time and money needed to upgrade. In my case, not to a glistening well-organised workshop full of quality tools, but to an untidy maker den, with a WM18 mill with Rotary Table, DRO, & ER32 collets, WM280VF lathe, bandsaw, bench, 4" vice, bench grinder, Dremel, plus a small pillar drill, air compressor, and brazing torch. These are supported by a selection of hand-tools, and measuring equipment: probe and lever DTI's, Digital Calipers, Micrometer, precision parallels and spring calipers.

I buy inexpensive rather than cheap or dear because my tools are all considered expendable. Too cheap is a waste money as is unnecessarily buying top-end. I don't intend to die leaving my kids a workshop full of expensive tools to dispose of for the best possible price; it can all be recycled! But that's just me – it's how you want to play the game in your workshop that matters.

Dave

First see how much room you have, and how much of it you want to give over to machine tools. Then look at what you want as an investment. If you buy at the right price, and it's not what you want you can resell without loosing to much money(or be lucky and make a profit). Take your time and be patient, everything comes to he who waits !! Buy quality – it will always sell. There is no sustitute for size, so get the biggest machine you can, temper this with a little caution. If there is little space then choose a machine that has many attachments.

My dream – A bridgeport mill and a colchester Triumph 2000

Reality – A long bed S7 and an amolco attachment.

Take your time and enjoy it. Noel.

I bought a Warco WM250V, for the variable speed (turn-up and -downable), the 26mm hole through the spindle, the powered crossfeed and the capabiity to fit the Myford double-swivel milling slide I already had.

It has shortcomings, but I know how to get round them even though that can be time-cosuming. I think it's a good balance between cost and quality and I'm very happy with it.

But I've been a turner since the 1970s. It's difficult to guess how good a starting machine it'd be.

To answer your question "What lathe and Why"?

For years had hankered after a lathe, and apart from the Dean Smith and Grace, and Edgwicks in the training school had little experience of centre lathes. Myford was the only name I knew for Model Engineering and small lathes.

A friend who did a bit of machine tool dealing had a ML7 and sold it to me, and gave me some tools for it.

So I started cutting metal, and refreshing my memory along the way (from some 20+ years before. )

Having used the Vertical Slide, was not impressed by a lack of rigidity, so added a Rodney milling attachment. Now the lack of rigidity in the lathe became more apparent.

So bought a Mill/Drill. The constraint was space, still is, more than budget, but still have it. Mostly it does what I want.

Eventually the constraints of having only a 2MT Headstock and Tailstock wore me down.

With retirement approaching looked at a new Myford Super 7 Sigma, with gearbox, steadies, chucks etc. But no Power Cross Feed. The cost, circa £8K put me off.

I had asked Warco for a quote for an Imperial BH600, without stand. Never received a reply. ETR replied within a week. Also offered free fitting of a VFD. All for a quarter of the cost of the Myford; delivered.

So, with VFD can only use 6 of the possible speeds, but it provides a range at each setting, instead of the standard 12 possibles.

The BH600 could have been Imperial or Metric versions., a Chester Craftsman (still available ) was only available as Metric.

The ETR BL12-24 was dual dialled, being essentially a Metric machine.

Why did I choose it?

It has: Power Feed for both Turning and Facing, a Norton gearbox and a 5MT Mandrel, (Plus 3MT / 5MT sleeve ) Induction Hardened Bed, came with 6" 3 and 8" 4 Jaw chucks, Faceplate, Steadies, and Centres, at a quarter of the cost of the 4MT Myford., delivered.

Screw on chucks, but with retaining dogs, so quite safe to run in reverse.

That was 17 years ago. Am I happy with it? Generally Yes.

Problems?

Noisy tumbler gears, replaced under Warranty, but still noisy so replaced (Cost £40+ ) with Nylon gears.

Thought I had severe belt slip. It was actually too small a dimple in the shaft for tensioning the secondary belt. Fairly easily rectified. No problems since. Original belts still going strong!

Mods / Add Ons? Yes

Modified the acrylic chuck guard to clear the Faceplate.

Removed the acrylic guard over the Toolpost, 'cos it got in the way without improving vision or access.

Moved the Thread Indicator Dial to the Tailstock side of the Apron (Modified the shape slightly to clear bearing block for the Leadscrew and Power Feed Shaft. The object was to maximise Saddle travel. By doing this, I made myself problems later!

Made a 80T gear to halve the feed rate. This meant destroying the knob when relocating the closure for the gear cover, and drilling and tapping anew hole for the stud..

Modified the Fixed Steady to keep the clamp bolt captive. A fairly simple job, well worth doing.

Made a Fourway indexing Rear Toolpost to match the Front Toolpost (Bolts nicely to the T slots in the Cross Slide and improves parting off )

Made a Cetrte Height Gauge. Essential since I have used Tangential Turning (Diamond ) Tools for several years.

Made a Micrometer Saddle stop. Useful.

Because of my carelessness, had to make and fit a new 13T gear for the Saddle drive. Modified the Rack to prevent recurrences. (Found out the hard way that the chart for HV6 Rotary Table contained errors! ).

What has it been used for?

Turning, Facing, Boring, Drilling, Reaming, Knurling, Screwcutting (Finest was 40 tpi, coarsest was 4 mm pitch) Flycutting / coordinate drilling reaming using a Vertical Slide intended for a Sieg SC6

Have never needed to remove the gap, although came close when swinging a piece of Cast iron, just over 6" diameter, 5" off centre.

Tooling used.

HSS in the Diamond Turning Tool, and for screw cutting, Carbide for roughing, (and hardened materials ) boring, spherical turning

If you have read this far without falling asleep, HTH

Howard

I have two Myfords,the oldest has no gearbox and is 63years old .I had it reground at Myfords 2006 and it is still a very accurate lathe .My other lahte is a large bore S7 Plus, which I bought at the Myford closing down sale it is a nice lathe to use for what I make.I made a 2" traction engine but Bought a Ward2A to turn the wheels and you certainly notice the difference in rigidity .I sold it to a factory for what I paid for it 400gbp in the mid eighties. Get the biggest you can accomodate and afford, you have to decide on the size of your projects in the future also.

Frank

Next lathe, I got the chance of a Super7, local, £500 so took the plunge. Pulled apart and put back together with some new bits, some scraping but I'm not sure about the headstock and the slideways can't be smooth and stiff – not like another Super7 I use. A good Super 7 with gearbox and power cross feed, QCTP, stand, coolant, the works, is sublime to use. Way over-priced but if you want one, you gotta have one.

This does get used. All the previous lathes are now stored underneath it. It doesn't look like this anymore – it has a haze of rust all over, and some bad spots. But always ready to go.

I probably have used all the controls and found them useful. Reverse, Backgear, Power feed. Screwcutting… can't be bothered. Faceplate – never.

Wish I had more QCT things and more chucks for the tailstock. Tool changing consumes a lot of time if you are not organised!

And I got the Myford dividing head. A bother to set up and take off and set up and take off …..