As it is cast iron, it would best be preheated and then welded by a specialist cast iron welder. Alas my best welder is not now available.

Have a chat with John Smith 'Doubleboost' Regards, Lynne

If I was still working then a good friend who is a skilled welder would have been the first option. Now I don’t have anyone who would do it for mates rates I would probably make a sub plate to go between the motor and the bracket and screw the plate to the bracket with countersunk screws. It may be a candidate for metal stitching but this is likely to be quite costly.

Mike

Edited By Mike Poole on 28/01/2021 10:59:52

As the cast iron has an old crack judging by the rust, I would reinforce the flat side with steel strip bolted to the casting, at least 3mm thick and packing the other end of the motor bracket with the same.

Cast iron rods need less current than normal steel ones being mostly Nickel and the ones I got for a cracked exhaust manifold struck really well. Preheat was easy – run the engine after grinding a vee along the crack. The job couldn't wriggle as it was still bolted to the head. The weld out lived the car. Use decent 95% or better nickel rods.

The danger of distortion should be kept in mind.

As has been said, being able to weld with some proficiency is a good plan. V out, then the use of cast iron rods which being high nickel are expensive but should run like butter with preheat and slow cooling. If the above is not possible then if the job is worth it get it done by a professional. Noel

If it is difficult to get the job done, or it is expensive, Dave H and Pete R have the easier/cheaper solution. Even another 5mm added to the thickness would likely make not a jot of difference to the machine’s operation. Farmers do not usually just weld up broken machinery – they reinforce it at the same time.

I'd suggest the steel sub-plate bolt on as well, if you do not have oxy acetylene equipment or a friend skilled in welding.

If it were my bracket, I would grind out the crack to an open vee shape, clean off all adjacent paint, and pre-heat to dull red heat. Then bronze weld / braze with bronze rod the vee'd area with oxy acetylene. Good solid repair.

You could do worse than get your filament from Prusa in the Czech Republic, expensive but the ones I have tried have all been very good. Now of course suffering , as you, from Brexit effects but the other way round, so to speak.

Amazon Basic filaments are not too bad, I think Amazon might have a small warehouse somewhere in the EU

John

Edited By Journeyman on 06/02/2021 13:49:19