How to apply grease to old machine

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How to apply grease to old machine

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  • #10603
    pgrbff
    Participant
      @pgrbff
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      #516433
      pgrbff
      Participant
        @pgrbff

        nipple2.jpgI have just bought an old Italian bandsaw, I have no idea of its age but the 3ph motor can be run in delta or star so not too old.

        The grease 'nipples' consist of threaded tubes with threaded caps and I do not know how you apply grease to these under pressure.

        One of the 'nipples is 16mm in diameter, the other 30mm.

        What would be the best grease to use?

        Happy new year to all.

        I'm having problems loading further images but will keep trying.

         

         

        Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:26:34

        Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:27:44

        Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:29:17

        Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:31:34

        #516434
        Brian H
        Participant
          @brianh50089

          You just fill the cap with grease and then give the cap half a turn periodically. As to the type of grease, to be exact you need to know if the bearings are ball or roller or plain bronze; in practical terms, I would use the grease usually intended for auto use, i.e. a general lithium grease.

          Brian

          #516436
          pgrbff
          Participant
            @pgrbff
            Posted by Brian H on 31/12/2020 10:30:35:

            You just fill the cap with grease and then give the cap half a turn periodically. As to the type of grease, to be exact you need to know if the bearings are ball or roller or plain bronze; in practical terms, I would use the grease usually intended for auto use, i.e. a general lithium grease.

            Brian

            Thank you. I have no idea what sort of bearings yet, just so long as they are not Babbitt. I have managed to add an image of the upper wheel, does this give any clues as to the type?

            #516453
            Brian H
            Participant
              @brianh50089

              I would guess at bronze bearings because the wheels would not be revolving at high speed. I wonder if you remove the three slotted screws shown in the second picture, you may be able to see the end of the bearing to determine what kind of bearing it is? This would also give the opportunity to clear out some of the old grease in there.

              It looks to be a nice piece of old machinery so all the best with getting it going and using it.

              Brian

              #516464
              not done it yet
              Participant
                @notdoneityet

                just so long as they are not Babbitt.

                Why? Babbitt has been a good bearing material for all sorts of things, from cart axles to engine crankshaft bearings. Even wooden bearings were used in a lot of machinery back in the last century and before.

                #516473
                noel shelley
                Participant
                  @noelshelley55608

                  Babbitt is still used in many BIG bearings. Wood bearings are still used ! On combine harversters The straw walker shaft bearings on the straw walker are oil soaked beech blocks. Two halfs, with paper shims to take up wear. Noel

                  #516486
                  Bo’sun
                  Participant
                    @bosun58570

                    I'd also be inclined to check that the greaseways are clear and not choked with old congealed grease first. Give the grease cups a good clean out too. A good quality NGLI No. 2 lithium based grease should do the trick. Most wheel bearing greases fall into that category.

                    #516490
                    old mart
                    Participant
                      @oldmart

                      An alternative grease which might be more in keeping with an old machine would be Castrol heavy, which is calcium based, but not high melting point.

                      Edited By old mart on 31/12/2020 15:23:31

                      #516501
                      pgrbff
                      Participant
                        @pgrbff
                        Posted by not done it yet on 31/12/2020 13:31:26:

                        just so long as they are not Babbitt.

                        Why? Babbitt has been a good bearing material for all sorts of things, from cart axles to engine crankshaft bearings. Even wooden bearings were used in a lot of machinery back in the last century and before.

                        I didn't say Babbitt was no good. As a woodworker with too much to do already in the middle of nowhere in Italy, I think I might find it easier to replace a more recent type.

                        #516523
                        Dennis R
                        Participant
                          @dennisr

                          Check out stauffer grease cup on the internet.

                          #516525
                          pgrbff
                          Participant
                            @pgrbff
                            Posted by Dennis R on 31/12/2020 17:24:41:

                            Check out stauffer grease cup on the internet.

                            Thanks

                            #516549
                            not done it yet
                            Participant
                              @notdoneityet

                              I didn't say Babbitt was no good.

                              I thought you did – at least in your situation – so I was wondering why. Perhaps a language translation issue. If I was replacing a Babbitted bearing, I might well re-metal it as original, but no reason for not using a different bearing if appropriate,

                              I have a set of four engine connecting rods which will get re-metalled – if I ever need another fresh set.

                              #517323
                              Nigel Graham 2
                              Participant
                                @nigelgraham2

                                These are as others indicate, called 'Stauffer Lubricators", and were very common before the invention of pressure grease-guns and nipples. They are just as effective, simply less compact.

                                I think you'll find you need fill both the cap and cup, on the first charging, unless the cup is of much smaller capacity than the cap. They are often of similar sizes, so filling only one part won't push much down the grease-way to the bearing.

                                My approach would be:

                                Clean out the lubricator and grease-drilling thoroughly.

                                Fill the lubricator fully as above, cup and cap.

                                Wind the cap down until grease just starts to appear from the bearing, while gently turning the machine over by hand to distribute it. (Obviously having put an initial smear of the same grease on the bearing, during assembly.)

                                Then refill the lubricator and as Brian says, give the journal a periodic half-turn dose.

                                If the bearing-housing is very thick-walled or the journal has big grease-grooves in its walls, those cavities can themselves absorb an appreciable portion of that initial lubricator-full.

                                Something like a wooden ice-lolly stick or a narrow semi-rigid plastic plant-label is effective as a grease spatula.

                                I would think modern greases would last a goodly time before a new squirt is needed, but that can only be determined by experience with the specific machine, and it is better to clean up exuded grease than renew a dried bearing.

                                #517326
                                Ady1
                                Participant
                                  @ady1

                                  I have grease nipples on my shaper but they are for oil, not grease

                                  BTW if you have a blocked grease/oil nipple pump air through it to clear it

                                  #517441
                                  Howard Lewis
                                  Participant
                                    @howardlewis46836

                                    The usual way or working with Stauffer greasers is, once the passages are clear, lubricant is reaching the bearings, to give the cap half or a complete turn every so often, say every operating hour or so, to ensure that the bearing is lubricated.

                                    Initially, it may well be worth using a fairly thin grease, to ensure that it does reach, and leak out of, the bearings. Once you are happy with the lubrication, you can use a heavier grease if you so wish.

                                    Howard

                                    #517448
                                    Bo’sun
                                    Participant
                                      @bosun58570

                                      Greases other than NLGI No.2 tend to be a little more difficult to source.

                                      #531001
                                      pgrbff
                                      Participant
                                        @pgrbff
                                        Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 03/01/2021 23:54:34:

                                        These are as others indicate, called 'Stauffer Lubricators", and were very common before the invention of pressure grease-guns and nipples. They are just as effective, simply less compact.

                                        I think you'll find you need fill both the cap and cup, on the first charging, unless the cup is of much smaller capacity than the cap. They are often of similar sizes, so filling only one part won't push much down the grease-way to the bearing.

                                        My approach would be:

                                        Clean out the lubricator and grease-drilling thoroughly.

                                        Fill the lubricator fully as above, cup and cap.

                                        Wind the cap down until grease just starts to appear from the bearing, while gently turning the machine over by hand to distribute it. (Obviously having put an initial smear of the same grease on the bearing, during assembly.)

                                        Then refill the lubricator and as Brian says, give the journal a periodic half-turn dose.

                                        If the bearing-housing is very thick-walled or the journal has big grease-grooves in its walls, those cavities can themselves absorb an appreciable portion of that initial lubricator-full.

                                        Something like a wooden ice-lolly stick or a narrow semi-rigid plastic plant-label is effective as a grease spatula.

                                        I would think modern greases would last a goodly time before a new squirt is needed, but that can only be determined by experience with the specific machine, and it is better to clean up exuded grease than renew a dried bearing.

                                        How thick should the grease be? There were no oil seals at the back of the bearing, just very congealed hard grease.

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