Hi Jon,

This works well for me

A simple alloy tray, keep it low profile so it will pass under your largest chuck.

Two lugs are screwed to the back. These locate in the end tee slots and are secured in place with two brass screws, one through each lug.

The leadscrew guard is cheap and cheerfull but very effective. Other brands are available!!!

hope this helps Geoff

No Jon,

They're not tee nuts just flat lugs cut from 6mm flat.

Cut to the same length as the width of the tee slot and attached to the tray with two small screws.

They slide into the tee slots. The round head screw is tightened which lifts the lug upwards and clamps it in place.

The tray is set up so it just clears the bed.

Geoff

I am thinking about making some extensions that bolt to the saddle as used on Dean Smith & Grace lathes.

Geoff's idea is great though and I'll look into a version of that too…

I like Geoff's idea. Rubber sheet also works well on lathe or mill alike. If cutting cast iron or grinding use some extra coverings to keep chips & dust away.

regards

Similar to the rubber or leather mentioned above I use a short length of plastic DPC material on my WM250. Has the advantage of being stiff to keep the swarf on top but still bends if it hits the headstock. The bolts go into the holes for the travelling steady so also serves to stop them filling up.

There are of course felt wipers on the front of the saddle as well. Did try leather but found it was too floppy and tended to soak up the way oil.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 03/09/2020 16:54:13

Which is fine if you only need to work within a limited distance from the headstock, spring loaded roller perhaps or a standard rubber bellows?

John

Like Journeyman, I also use plastic dampcourse material for this purpose, since it,s strong enough and dirt cheap, can be picked up in almost any skip and easy to replace. Plus, it will never cause any damage to your chuck.

Also works well on my mill.