I would say not worth it on a lathe. On a mill very worthwhile. Depends a bit on your skill level I guess but a dro on a lathe doesn’t make it much easier to use. Using a mill is often more coordinate based so the benefit is much more apparent. Of course there is a skill in using the dro to its best advantage.

As pretty much a novice, I fitted a DRO to my Axminster SC4 and it gave me far more confidence and in my opinion is well worthwhile doing. It wasn’t difficult to fit, but I am so happy that I did.

Keith

+1

Fitting a DRO to a milling machine is a no-brainer. Multiple dial turns in 3-axes and don't forget to compensate for backlash! DRO is extremely helpful.

Less so on a lathe. They only have two axes, and one of the dials doesn't move far. Backlash compensation is much easier because most lathe work concentrates on one axis at a time. So I drive my lathe differently to my mill:, I calculate how much metal must be removed, cut close to that value on the dial, and then finish off with a micrometer.

If someone gave me a DRO I'd cheerfully fit it to my lathe, but I'm not moved to buy one. As always the value of a tool depends on the individual. Keith mentions novice confidence as a benefit, and Chris with 57 years experience recommends DRO for speed and ease of use. They're both right, but the novice stage doesn't last long, and I suspect most amateur turners work slowly compared with Chris. Well I'm sure I do! In my workshop, a lathe DRO wouldn't save much time because I'm rarely in a hurry.

Of course if money is no object, buy one. But if money is short it could be better spent on something more useful. Knurling, Ball-turner, QCTP, Drill Chucks, Tap and Die fittings, micrometers, squares, calipers. Collet chuck with collet set. Carbide inserts, HSS and Grinder, Oil can, DTI and stand, spanners. The list is endless…

Dave

Any lathe with a dial on the saddle handwheel can do that. I do it all the time on my Warco. You might have to do a little light mental arithmetic, as the divisions represent 0,25mm. But they're a good 3mm or so wide, so you can interpolate to a coupla thou. Good for milling in the lathe, too.

Plus 1 for the saddle stop.

Plus 2

After installing** my wm250, I fitted the QCTP off my previous minilathe. The next evening I made an adjustable carriage stop – both adjustments are tool free so that it's easy to use.

** carried it down the steps, staggered through the cellar with it and plonked it on the end of the bench where it's been ever since. Although I do swing it around on the drip tray to get in the cupboard next to the change gear cover.

Dont know how to spell D,R O, never mind how to use one !

6" rule is good enough for me [and I suspect for a good many others too, if the truth be known ]

Buy a sack full of bits and learn how to use the machine, then worry about a D,R,O, if you still feel you need one.

As above, for a mill the DRO is far more useful than one for my lathe. I’ve (eventually) put one on the cross slide and have one available for the long travel. I am in no hurry to fit the long travel scale…..

I will likely be making a power feed for my little mill before fitting the other scale to the lathe – and that is not a priority…

Fitting a DRO will transform your use of a lathe. I don't know what type you'll get as a £200 accessory but my £300 one has made a world of difference to how I go about working on mine. It will even measure existing tapers very accurately.

Some people will always resist technological advances. For me, anything that improves ease of use and reduces risk of error is a good thing.

[This posting has been removed]