If you are talking about a Boxford Model A,B,or C or AUD BUD etc, undo the wiring from the base to the motor if the motor is above the cabinet and the switches are in the cabinet. Check for other wires that may have to be undone (Lathe lights, Interlock switches if it was a "Schools Lathe" Again if the motor is in the cabinet, you will have to remove the drive belt between the counter shaft and lathe spindle. Remove the counter shaft or if time is pressing, cut the belt and replace with a linked belt later.

If you have the quick change gearbox, you can remove the gearbox, saddle and lead screw in one assembly. 3 screws on the gearbox, 2 more from the lead screw bracket RHS. Remove the restraining plate underneath the saddle at the rear of the saddle (2 hex head cap screws), slacken the saddle clamp just above the lead screw half nut handle. Slide the whole lot off (Gearbox, lead screw, saddle) – filthy job but reduces weight by 10Kg ?? If you decide to remove saddle , then gearbox/leadscrew, make sure you don't loose the flat key between lead screw and feed scroll gear tucked up inside the saddle.

Remove the tailstock, gear cover on LHS to reduce weight. Undo the 4 bolts, cabinet to lathe bed. One strong boy or two of you for H&S remove the lathe from the cabinet – probably 35Kg ?? DO NOT remove the headstock from the bed. Accuracy of alignment Headstock to bed is best left alone.

I moved my Boxford (still on its cabinet) onto a trailer, off again, up a step, onto rollers, through the house to the attached workshop (whilst the wife was out) on scaffold pipe rollers. Then again from Peterborough to France, including an Economy mill on the same 500kg trailer.

Have a good look around where you are buying from for any useful bits – even if odd ends of bar etc. Make sure you get both inside and outside jaws for chucks. If self centring chuck doesn't have both inside and outside, its value goes from £90 to £30 in my books. It is near impossible to buy replacement jaws cheaper than a brand new chuck. Change gears – even if you have a quick change box, you need some spare gears to change between metric / imperial – you can pick them up through ebay etc for reasonable price. Lathe tools, centres drill chucks – keep your eyes open.

Check what voltage etc single phase, 3 phase VMC etc etc.

I wouldn't change my Boxford – hope Saturday works out well for you.

As mentioned above the whole lot can be lifted as one with an engine hoist or similar using the lifting holes in the cabinet. When I collected mine I didn't have a hoist so seperated the lathe from the cabinet (you have to disconnect some limit switches, uncouple the linked drive belt and undo the bolts) then 2 of us lifted the lathe into my van and slid the cabinet up some ramps and into the back

Hope that helps

Lathes.co.uk is your friend for identifying. But it looks like a Mk 2, maybe 3 – it's not a Mk 1

Further to Speedy's advice, during any dismantling of hardware or wiring take lots of photographs. Dozens of 'em from several angles – they're free, and may save mucho bother later! Not unusual to see questions like: I disconnected umpteen wires. Anyone know how to put them back? And 'does anyone know where this part came from?'

As a breed lathes are top-heavy and unstable when lifted, they like to roll backwards. Also awkward to lift because most of the weight is at the headstock end. Have a plan, put one person in charge, and don't drop it. Make sure no-one is ever underneath. If it does go, make sure no-one tries to catch it – run away.

When lifting make sure the lathe is balanced and that ropes & slings don't crush anything important as they take the weight. The balance point will probably be just under the chuck. Never lift it by the chuck or headstock.

Dunno know how heavy the Boxford is, but my slightly larger Chinese toy is much easier to move with an Engine Crane. The Boxford doesn't look like a monster, but it is heavy by ordinary domestic standards. Getting off the stand and on to the trailer & vice versa may be the worst bit. (Cranes can be hired, but I bought one because kit needs to be moved occasionally. I've never regretted the purchase! )

Equipment: have a think. Spanners (imperial AF), general toolkit with full screwdriver set, torch, mirror, steel toe-caps, work gloves, tarp in case it rains, boxes or bags for loose bits, strong ropes or slings (new 1000kg rated), rollers (bits of steel pipe) if you don't have a crane, lengths of 2×4, cold beer etc.

Terrain makes a big difference. Easy to move a lathe straight through a garage door and onto a trailer parked on a concrete drive. Much more difficult to get one out of a tight space, across soft rough muddy ground and up a flight of stairs!. But amazing things are done with a few strong blokes, ropes, rollers and bits of wood. Be easier the second time, which will be when you get it home!

Allow plenty of time; in my workshop it would take longer to make a decluttered flight-path than to move the machine. And then to put all the rubbish back…

Dave

Boxfords are only about 400lb. The bed has a gap between the shears so you can put a strap through that below the chuck, round a bit of 2×4 and back up to a hook where the chuck was before you took it off, Then put a rope through the spidle to pull the strap close in to stop it sliding down the bed. Then put a rachet strap from the hook to the tailstock end to pull up that end. Make sure the taistock is firmly locked. wind the saddle along to balance the load.
If the trailer is wide enough I'd lay it on its back as not many trailers have decent tie downs to hold it vertical. If you do have it vertical i suggest some 2×4 to make lots of side brace triangles. Dont strap it to a pallet – they flex like crazy under this sort of load.

Better make sure it's a folding hoist sometimes they aren't.