The Morse Taper is designed to be ‘self holding’ … I would generally avoid ‘whacking’ it into place whether using drills or tool-holders !!

If the taper slips, look to the accuracy of the fit NOT the hammer collection.

MichaelG.

As most of our drilling machines were equipped with the Barson tool it was standard practice to clean the socket and shank and then set the drill in the socket which involved feeling the tang into its slot, a light tap with the Barson bronze hammer head finished the job. The tap is very light and hammering or whacking does not come into it, if the Barson had gone walkies then I would just press the drill down on a block of wood. This method has worked for me, drills very seldom come out of the socket and ejecting with the Barson or drift is easy. At home with lighter machinery I use a double taper type lever drift to jack the drill out and this is kind to the machine and the tang. I use a very small copper faced mallet to tap the drill in if I can find it or again just press down on a piece of wood. The taper socket is a crucial part of the machines accuracy and should be kept clean and the shank of anything to be inserted should be cleaned and inspected for any damage which can be gently stoned down so it will not damage the socket. A socket and shank in good condition will happily drive the largest drill that should fit the socket, 7/8” or 22mm is about the limit for morse 2 reduced shank drills and jump up sockets should be used with caution.

Mike

My "double taper type lever drifts" are by Facom and bought from The Drill Service.

I have always fancied a Barson which seems to be a portmanteau of bastard and whoreson!

Hi Mark. I only have a MT2 taper. So far all I do is bring the collet chuck up the spindle & finger tighten the drawbar. Then with a spanner I just nip the bar up. Between a 1/8 turn & no more than a 1/4. Have never had it slip so far. I have however had milling cutters climb out of the collet chuck. So now I tighten the collet onto the cutter very hard. My fault for mistakenly climb milling. Lesson learned with the aid of forum members.

Steve.

Edited By Steviegtr on 09/05/2020 00:51:48

This is the items in question.

What confused me was, he said it was the same as every commonly available mt collet chuck, I've never seen one for sale without a drawbar thread? I wasn't questioning his use, but the 'standard' collet chuck with no thread for a drawbar.

It is usually possible to add a tapped hole for a drawbar if needed. The commercial Morse tapers that I have done this to were surface hardened, possibly nitrided, so grinding off the end surface exposes the softer core, which can be drilled and tapped. It does tend to be tough material, but it can be done. I've also got a MT3 to MT2 adapter with a tang on it that I have managed to put a drawbar hole through. That lets me use a MT2 ER16 chuck on the milling machine.

John

Thanks, Martin,

Yes, come to think about it more carefully, the dead centres don’t have either.